“We had a real women’s fashion fair.” This was Georges Papa‘s initial assessment at the end of Fashion Link Milano, the “collector” of fairs that enlivened the Rho space for four days.
The historic organiser of fairs such as Intertex and Ready to Show is hard at work to bring this latest show to Fashion & Jewels.
“It was impossible for this edition because, between Magic in Las Vegas, which is the most important sourcing fair in the world, the start date close to Chinese New Year and the middle of Ramadan, my reference companies in the Asian area would have had too many logistical difficulties. But for September, I am aiming for a hundred exhibitors who will have their own space within Fashion Link. I am talking about brands from China, Bangladesh and other countries that have expressed interest, such as Ethiopia and Ukraine, where, despite the war, clothing continues to be produced, as that country already did so during the Soviet Union era, when each republic had its own speciality.”
Will there also be an Italian section?
It’s a project I believed in, but it’s also very difficult for two reasons. The first is that it may be too late to involve certain companies, which may no longer have the strength to enter the market or may already have been absorbed into groups and funds. I fear that there is no future for independent workshops. The second reason is that many continue to promote or sell their small brands, but with all the multi-brand retailers disappearing, it is becoming difficult to find a shop that will buy from them. The only possible alternative is to set up a home-based workshop, producing and selling like a quality tailor. Nowadays, you can find this by knowing how to choose, even when buying from large groups.
So you’re thinking of an alternative?
I’m working on a way out, a project that can save two struggling businesses at the same time. It can be summed up in one sentence: ‘Italian clothing manufacturers will be the salvation of French multi-brand stores’. This is because multi-brand stores selling quality goods in France, more so in the provinces than in Paris, are struggling to compete with single-brand stores and cannot buy from Italian brands because there is no margin due to the price. But does it make sense to want to be a brand when your real quality lies in being a good manufacturer? My intention is to associate selected Italian manufacturers in the medium-high range with French stores. But this reasoning could also work in Germany. With a single shop, there would not be sufficient quantities, so an organisation is needed to group shops together to create a sort of purchasing centre. I could be ready by September, I already have French partners and I am looking for companies in Italian districts such as Carpi, Prato and others. And if we don’t make it for the September fair, I will still go ahead.
Let’s go back to Fashion Link. Is it a worthwhile format?
The team has done a good job because it’s not easy to bring together trade fairs that are held once a year, such as SìSposa Italia, with fur, for example, given that The One is basically the former Mifur, which was also held once a year. These are two hugely important sectors, and they have been given the space they deserve. Fashion & Jewels has also done well, showcasing many women’s fashion brands, almost like Pitti does with men’s fashion.
